Fueling
PUMP
The GSXR1100 is carb fed, and in the bike the fuelis gravity fed from the tank above it.
Many people on the groups find that too much pressure causes their
float bowls to flood so the pump must have some pressure limiter.
The other problem that is sometimes reported is fuel starvation.
The mechanisms for this are not always aparent, but the use of
pressure restrictors is believed by some to be relevant.
There are two options;
Facet pump and regulate the pressure (with something like a filterking)
Bike pump
I went with the later. It seems that all fuel pumps for carb fed
bikes above a certain capacity (i.e. 500cc and greater) use a standard
part. This is a mitsubishi pump. Mine came from a Kawasaki
ZX9r, and is quite a late modely pump (they were carb fed after most
others had gone to fuel injection). Anyway it runs and was cheap
on e-bay, also it came with a filter on the input. The pump
itself has 10mm push on fittings, the input filter takes this down to
8mm push on.
I need to mount this on antivibration mounts. I think I will
mount it under the tank, as that way it will always be nicely primed.
FILTER
While I was wondering what to do about all this, I bought a filterking
pressure regulator (cheap on e-bay), and a new filter for it
(Rallydesign). This has 8mm push on fittings.
TANK
The space for the tank on the phoenix is a bit funny, and the brackets
on my chassis were not identical. The dimensions don't allow
anything standard to be used, as it needs to be long (right ot left),
tall (bottom to top) but not very deep (front to back). Most
standard tanks are deep but not so tall. This isn't a problem,
2 options
Car builder solutions (nfauto) make polyprop tanks in black with moulded in fittings
Allyfab and make nice custom aluminum tanks
I was going to go with a plastic tank, but was warned off the moulded
in fittings. The allyfab stand sold me a tank at Stoneleigh and
they are very nice people. not sure whether it will fit! but I
was always planning to change the length of the lower tank mounting
brackets.
SENDER
I don't like the idea of running out of fuel, and I don't like the idea
so much that I am going to add weight and cost of a sender and gauge.
The tank is fitted with a 6holes and m5 rivnuts on a 60.4mm
PCD. This turns out to be designed for the ETB Instruments sender
(damned good service, and very pleasant). This uses a float on
the end of a piece of wire. Bend the wire to get full range from empty
to full. I read the instructions and it was simple. Do this
while the tank is out of the car and you can tilt the tank (when
connected to the meter) to check that it is all 100%. Good idea
to do all these tank jobs before any petrol has been added!
VENT VALVE
The cap that I have doesn't allow air back in (some do) so I needed to
get a vent valve. You can just use pipe, but it seems better to
have a proper valve. TRV45 from Thinkautomotive (£17 but
that seems to be what these things cost), this just needs a hole
drilled and a nut screwed on from inside (through the SENDER hole).
Fiddly, but not difficult as long as you avoid the baffles.
Also these come in rather pimpy red-anodized finish! Not
sure what to do with a pipe from this vent, I guess it would be good to
mount this higher, and maybe have a filter, but maybe this is
overcomplicating!
PIPEWORK
The tank comes with a strange fitting. A -6 female thread and I
need to go to an 8mm push on hose. Now dash 6 isn't really a
thread size but more of a hose size. JIC-6 is a thread and this
is what it seems to be ( 9/16 UNF 18tpi). Finding a banjo for a push-on hose wasn't
easy (Thinkautomotive only did long banjo bolts, and suggested an M14
banjo and a bit of reaming!), Think did come up with an alternative
male to male converter, and then a jic-6 90 female to 8mm (5/16inch)
push-on hose. Well I have ordered the bits (£3.50 postage
so not bad at all), and will see if it fits together. They do
have an excellent catalogue with good advice and generally useful
information. Definite download.
9/16 banjo may be a Weber standard of some sort (not sure about this,
but merlinmotorsports website has some promising connectors). The
Banjo bolts are wrong (24tpi instead of 18tpi), but the banjos
themselves might fit. Yes, I am getting lost in the minutae.
Not sure what hose to run from back to front of car. Rubber hose
is the simplest (fewest parts), but people seem to run more interesting
stuff. Turns out rubber is a bit floppy, so difficult to mount.
Standard approach seems to be to run either copper or aluminium
tube from back to front, if this has a falre then the rubber hose canbe
pushed over it and sealed with jubilee or equivalent. B&Q
sell 8mm o.d. MicroBore tubing which is copper and up to the job
(£13.50 for 10meters), and a couple of olives soldered onto the
end avoid the problems of flaring (i.e. no flare tool, and no ability).
This seems like a good solution. Aluminium is claimed to
save some weight, but as copper is only 120grams/meter it isn't going
to be much. So B&Q copper it is, and I will have a few meters
spare!
For SVA rubber hose needs appropriate labelling. Not sure of the
codes, but anything sold as petrol hose must fit the bill. Copper
is copper and the SVA don't expect codes (I am told). Filler pipe
must have the codes (silicone type is no good for this). Not sure
whether the small bore hose from the top of the tip-over/vent valve
needs to be petrol compatible, it should never have liquid fuel in it,
although vapour might be present. Maybe just leave it off, not
sure what it even does?
Installation
Hose must be clipped at <300mm spacings for SVA (8mm o.d. is 5/16inch, and clips are available)
Not sure whether to install a spare line (fuel injection systems
require a return line), which would be much easier now than later.
Note to self. Install the solid hose so that the engine end is
higher than the top of the tank (to avoid leaks if this is
disconnected).
DIAGRAM
